Details, details, details…If you are looking to impress it’s all in the details. We’ve talked about matching your tie and pocket square; as well as the different dress shirt patterns and suit patterns; and yesterday we looked at the type of lapel you should wear with your body type and the tie to match. If you have been buying off the rack you have most likely over looked these options but now you can choose. Let’s continue today on helping you do that by talking about the buttons on your suit.
First off is the button stance, high, neutral or low.
The Low Button Stance: The above image shows my preference of a low button stance since I am 5’11. I am not too tall so the low button stance elongates the torso and makes me look a little taller. It also broadens the shoulders and chest with the deep cut ‘V’ shape.
A Natural Button Stance: This also works for my frame and the majority of my suits have this stance. It is a timeless look however and will never go out of style so if you are looking for that every day or timeless suit choose it. This is our standard stance.
A Higher Button Stance: For a shorter gentleman this could be your choice since it elongates your legs. If you have a longer torso and shorter legs this is also for you.
How Many Buttons?
1 Button: My last suit purchase was a 1 button suit because I wanted something a little more casual. Not to say you couldn’t wear a 1 button to a formal event because like we say choose confidence and you can get away with a lot of things in the world. The 1 button is especially great for when we launch our monthly essentials box of a dress shirt, tie and pocket square since it will allow you to show off more of that great dress shirt and tie you just received.
2 Button: The standard for suits that works for every body shape and style. Again for your every day or standard wear suit choose a natural button stance with a 2 button. The 2 button will elongate the frame and allow you to look taller and slimmer.
3 Button: If you are a taller gentleman you might want to consider the 3 button suit. It will naturally have a higher button stance and make your frame look proportionate. Otherwise we strongly suggest you steer clear, there is a reason why you don’t see the 3 button around much anymore.
Double Breasted: Not just for your C.E.O. or Grandpa anymore. The double breasted can be worn by any body shape as a statement piece. That means don’t wear it every day, wear it at special events or a night out with friends. The 6×2 or 4×2 double breasted suit means there are 6 or 4 buttons but only 2 are to be done up on both styles. The inside “anchor” button and the one horizontal to it.
Always, sometimes, never rule
Never ever button up the bottom button on the suit, the suit is cut to allow the last button to be unbuttoned. To button it up would not allow the suit to fall properly and you will get bunching in the back, stomach and chest.
The middle or top button on a 2 button suit is always to be done up, unless of course you are sitting or dancing then unbutton it. No need to cause stress on the button itself or the rest of the suit in those instances. When it comes to a double breasted the same rule applies except as we mentioned above, on the anchor button on the inside middle and the middle button horizontal to it.
The top button on a 3 button suit is the sometimes in this rule. We hope to have talked anyone under 6’5″ out of purchasing a 3 button suit already but if you do buy one use your discretion when buttoning the top one. It is perfectly OK to leave it unbuttoned at all times.
We hope this helped you as you continue on your path of purchasing a new suit and updating your style! Let us know in the comments what you think.
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